For more information regarding buying or selling a home go to: http://www.mnrealty.info/
Saturday, May 11, 2013
Otsego real estate housing market information
Otsego real estate housing market information - for more information click here
St. Michael Housing Real Estate Market Information
St. Michael Housing Real Estate Market Information : for other housing information click here
| Month | Active Listings, $ Volume | Active Listings, Number of | |
| Jun-12 | $18,773,980 | 68 | |
| Jul-12 | $17,028,900 | 62 | |
| Aug-12 | $16,191,988 | 58 | |
| Sep-12 | $15,760,488 | 53 | |
| Oct-12 | $12,293,778 | 52 | |
| Nov-12 | $13,427,995 | 58 | |
| Dec-12 | $11,014,305 | 46 | |
| Jan-13 | $11,897,900 | 50 | |
| Feb-13 | $12,334,590 | 49 | |
| Mar-13 | $13,275,440 | 53 | |
| Apr-13 | $16,572,900 | 61 | |
| May-13 | $15,900,100 | 57 For more information regarding buying or selling a home go to: http://www.mnrealty.info/ |
Big Lake Housing Information
Big Lake Housing Information - for more information click here
| Month | Active Listings, $ Volume | Active Listings, Number of |
| Jun-12 | $28,020,078 | 135 |
| Jul-12 | $29,950,151 | 140 |
| Aug-12 | $29,903,481 | 144 |
| Sep-12 | $26,756,606 | 130 |
| Oct-12 | $26,797,917 | 131 |
| Nov-12 | $24,079,907 | 113 |
| Dec-12 | $21,378,617 | 109 |
| Jan-13 | $20,132,087 | 106 |
| Feb-13 | $23,677,388 | 118 |
| Mar-13 | $22,611,628 | 108 |
| Apr-13 | $25,836,317 | 114 |
| May-13 | $24,954,406 | 111 |
How to build a deck
How to build a deck www.counselorrealty.com/bstrom
Once you have determined the basic design of your deck, the next step is to choose your materials. The most common choices are pressure-treated (P/T) lumber (usually Southern pine), redwood, or cedar. As a rule, pressure-treated lumber is the best choice for the substructure; the species you use for the visible parts of the deck will depend on your budget and the look you want.
The charts in this article will help you determine how much material you need, based on the species you choose. Although there is no such thing as an "average" deck, these instructions assume that your deck is attached to the house, is no more than 6" off the ground, and that there are no special load requirements. All design recommendations below are suggestions only, for estimating purposes. Always check local building codes before determining the final design.
Inside this document you will find information about:
CHOOSING MATERIALS
Decking–If you choose pressure-treated lumber, you'll have a choice between 5/4 x 6 decking (1x5-1/2 actual size) or 2" material (typically 2x4 through 2x8, all 1-1/2" thick). The size and species of the decking you choose will determine the spacing between your joists. Recommended spacing for common decking boards is as follows:
Determining Joist Size–2x6s through 2x10s are the most common sizes used for joists. The beams that carry them are typically 4x6 through 4x10, often "built up" from doubled 2-inch lumber. Pressure-treated lumber is generally less expensive than redwood or cedar, and can be used for the substructure even when the decking and railing will be other species.
In most cases, you'll want to determine the spacing between beams first, then use a joist size appropriate to that spacing. If the deck will be no more than 6' off the ground, a common recommendation is to space the support beams no more than 12' apart. As a rule, you'll only need one beam along the outer edge of the deck (a ledger bolted to the house supports the other end of the deck).
Determining Beam Size–Since support posts are often run through the decking to serve as railing posts, the specifications below are given for posts that will be spaced no more than 6' apart, with beams that are no more than 12' apart. With these spacing specifications, 4x4 posts are adequate for any deck less than 6' off the ground.
PREPARATION AND LAYOUT
Preparation–First, prepare the ground under the deck by removing the sod. Slope the ground away from the house a minimum of 1" every 15' to provide drainage. Once the deck is finished, the ground should be covered with 6 mil. black polyethylene to keep weeds from growing.
Measure and mark the position of the ledger along the wall. The height of the ledger should be 1" below the bottom of the door plus the thickness of the decking, plus the depth of the joists if you plan to set the joists on the ledger and beams rather than using joist hangers. It makes no difference which way you set the joists, as long as your layout is consistent.
Mount
a 2x6 ledger to the wall with 1/2" lag screws. The ledger must be
level, and the lag screws should be long enough to penetrate the studs
at least 3". Use two lag screws at each end, and one at each wall stud
(typically 16" on center) in between. Install a "Z"-shaped flashing
above the ledger to shed water, or space the ledger away from the wall
with washers.
Layout–To
establish the outside perimeter of the deck, measure out from each end
of the ledger about 18" beyond the outside edge of the deck. Set up
batter-boards as shown, then run taut strings from each end of the
ledger to the batter-boards to establish the sides of the deck.
Run a third string between the batter-boards to establish the outside edge of the deck. Square the layout by measuring the opposite diagonals, then adjusting the ledger-to-batter-board strings until both measurements are equal. Take care to maintain the correct distance between the strings.
BUILDING THE SUBSTRUCTURE
Footing and Piers–Use
a plumb bob from the string to establish the location of the footings.
The holes for the footings must be deeper than the maximum frost
penetration in your area, and deep enough to rest on undisturbed soil.
It's a good idea to dig 6" deeper and fill the bottom of the hole with
gravel, to allow drainage.
Mix concrete and pour the footings. To find the number of 90# bags of ready-mixed concrete you'll need for each 12x12 footing, measure the depth of the footing in inches and divide by 8. As you finish each pour, set a pre-cast pier on the footing so it extends about 6" above the ground level. Use a thin cement mix to bond the piers to the footings.
Posts–After the concrete has set, stand the posts on the piers. Use temporary braces and a level to plumb the posts. Once the posts are set, run a mason's line from the top of the ledger to each post and use a line level to mark it for cutting. The height of the post should be equal to the height of the ledger minus the depth of the beam that will be set on it.
Beams–Fasten
post-to-beam connectors on top of the posts with nails and 1/2"x5-1/2"
hex bolts, then set the beams into the connector. Plumb and square the
assembly, then secure the beams as you did the posts. If local building
codes require it, install 2x6 diagonal cross braces and secure them with
1/2"x4-1/2" lag screws.
Joists–Mark
the joist locations on both the beams and ledger, either 16" or 24"
o.c., as per your design. Set the joists in place with the crowns up.
If
the deck is wide enough that you need two sets of joists (and if you
set the joists over the beams rather than hanging them from joist
hangers), splice the connections by overlapping each pair of joists at
least 1' and nailing them together with 8d galvanized nails.
Install
blocking between the joists wherever required. Blocking requirements
are determined by your local building codes. Finally, nail the rim joist
across the ends of the joists.
Stairs–Build any stairs you will need. Instructions for building outdoor stairs are covered in an accompanying brochure.
DECKING AND RAILINGS
Decking–Deck boards should be laid with the bark side up, and with both ends centered over a joist. Stagger the joints of side-by-side deck boards so they don't line up. Notch the boards around posts or other obstructions, leaving 1/8" space for drainage.
2"-thick deck boards should be spaced approximately 1/8"; most builders set a 16d nail between the boards as they fasten them. 5/4"'x6" pressure-treated decking may be placed with each board flush against the next; natural shrinkage will provide the proper spacing.
Fasten
the deck boards at each joist. Use two fasteners per support point for
decking up to 6" wide, or three fasteners for wider boards.
Deck
screws or clips are generally better than nails, but all fasteners must
be hot-dipped galvanized, aluminum, or stainless steel. If you use
nails, blunt the points by tapping them with your hammer, to avoid
splitting the decking.
Let the decking run over the edge of the structure, then saw the ends off after all boards are laid.
Railings–Secure the railing posts at each corner of the deck, and on each side of the stairs. Then secure the field posts, spaced equally between the corners but no farther apart than allowed by local building codes (typically 6'). Nail the sub-railings and cap rail in place, then add the balusters.
TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST
Once you have determined the basic design of your deck, the next step is to choose your materials. The most common choices are pressure-treated (P/T) lumber (usually Southern pine), redwood, or cedar. As a rule, pressure-treated lumber is the best choice for the substructure; the species you use for the visible parts of the deck will depend on your budget and the look you want.
The charts in this article will help you determine how much material you need, based on the species you choose. Although there is no such thing as an "average" deck, these instructions assume that your deck is attached to the house, is no more than 6" off the ground, and that there are no special load requirements. All design recommendations below are suggestions only, for estimating purposes. Always check local building codes before determining the final design.
- Choosing Materials
- Preparation and Layout
- Building the Substructure
- Decking and Railings
CHOOSING MATERIALS
Decking–If you choose pressure-treated lumber, you'll have a choice between 5/4 x 6 decking (1x5-1/2 actual size) or 2" material (typically 2x4 through 2x8, all 1-1/2" thick). The size and species of the decking you choose will determine the spacing between your joists. Recommended spacing for common decking boards is as follows:
| 5/4x6 P/T Southern pine | 16" maximum |
| 2 inch thick redwood, western red cedar, S-P-F, Hem-fir, Northern white cedar | 24" maximum, 16" preferred |
| 2-inch Southern pine | 24" maximum |
Determining Joist Size–2x6s through 2x10s are the most common sizes used for joists. The beams that carry them are typically 4x6 through 4x10, often "built up" from doubled 2-inch lumber. Pressure-treated lumber is generally less expensive than redwood or cedar, and can be used for the substructure even when the decking and railing will be other species.
In most cases, you'll want to determine the spacing between beams first, then use a joist size appropriate to that spacing. If the deck will be no more than 6' off the ground, a common recommendation is to space the support beams no more than 12' apart. As a rule, you'll only need one beam along the outer edge of the deck (a ledger bolted to the house supports the other end of the deck).
| Up to 8 feet | 2x6 (Southern pine, Douglas fir, Western red cedar, S-P-F, or Hem-Fir) 2x8 (redwood, Northern white cedar) |
| 8 to 10 feet | 2x8 (all species listed above) |
| 10 to 12 feet | 2x8 (Southern pine, Douglas fir, Western red cedar, S-P-F, or Hem-fir) 2 x 10 (redwood, Northern white cedar) |
| Up to 8 feet | 2x6 (Southern pine, or Douglas fir) 2x8 (Western red cedar, S-P-F, Hem-Fir, redwood, or Northern white cedar) |
| 8 to 10 feet | 2x8 (all species listed above) |
| 10 to 12 feet | 2x8 (Southern pine, or Douglas fir) 2x10 (Western red cedar, S-P-F, or Hem-Fir, redwood, or Northern white cedar) |
Determining Beam Size–Since support posts are often run through the decking to serve as railing posts, the specifications below are given for posts that will be spaced no more than 6' apart, with beams that are no more than 12' apart. With these spacing specifications, 4x4 posts are adequate for any deck less than 6' off the ground.
| Up to 6 feet | 4x6 (Southern pine or Douglas fir) 4x8 (Western red cedar, S-P-F, Hem-Fir, redwood, or Northern white cedar) |
| Up to 7 feet | 4x8 (all species listed above) |
| Up to 9 feet | 4x8 (Southern pine, Douglas fir, Western red cedar, S-P-F, or Hem-Fir) 4x10 (redwood, Northern white cedar) |
| Up to 11 feet | 4x8 (Southern pine or Douglas fir) 4x10 (Western red cedar, S-P-F, Hem-Fir, redwood or Northern white cedar) |
| Up to 12 feet | 4x10 (all species listed above) |
PREPARATION AND LAYOUT
Preparation–First, prepare the ground under the deck by removing the sod. Slope the ground away from the house a minimum of 1" every 15' to provide drainage. Once the deck is finished, the ground should be covered with 6 mil. black polyethylene to keep weeds from growing.
Measure and mark the position of the ledger along the wall. The height of the ledger should be 1" below the bottom of the door plus the thickness of the decking, plus the depth of the joists if you plan to set the joists on the ledger and beams rather than using joist hangers. It makes no difference which way you set the joists, as long as your layout is consistent.
Mount
a 2x6 ledger to the wall with 1/2" lag screws. The ledger must be
level, and the lag screws should be long enough to penetrate the studs
at least 3". Use two lag screws at each end, and one at each wall stud
(typically 16" on center) in between. Install a "Z"-shaped flashing
above the ledger to shed water, or space the ledger away from the wall
with washers.Layout–To
establish the outside perimeter of the deck, measure out from each end
of the ledger about 18" beyond the outside edge of the deck. Set up
batter-boards as shown, then run taut strings from each end of the
ledger to the batter-boards to establish the sides of the deck.Run a third string between the batter-boards to establish the outside edge of the deck. Square the layout by measuring the opposite diagonals, then adjusting the ledger-to-batter-board strings until both measurements are equal. Take care to maintain the correct distance between the strings.
BUILDING THE SUBSTRUCTURE
Footing and Piers–Use
a plumb bob from the string to establish the location of the footings.
The holes for the footings must be deeper than the maximum frost
penetration in your area, and deep enough to rest on undisturbed soil.
It's a good idea to dig 6" deeper and fill the bottom of the hole with
gravel, to allow drainage.Mix concrete and pour the footings. To find the number of 90# bags of ready-mixed concrete you'll need for each 12x12 footing, measure the depth of the footing in inches and divide by 8. As you finish each pour, set a pre-cast pier on the footing so it extends about 6" above the ground level. Use a thin cement mix to bond the piers to the footings.
Posts–After the concrete has set, stand the posts on the piers. Use temporary braces and a level to plumb the posts. Once the posts are set, run a mason's line from the top of the ledger to each post and use a line level to mark it for cutting. The height of the post should be equal to the height of the ledger minus the depth of the beam that will be set on it.
Beams–Fasten
post-to-beam connectors on top of the posts with nails and 1/2"x5-1/2"
hex bolts, then set the beams into the connector. Plumb and square the
assembly, then secure the beams as you did the posts. If local building
codes require it, install 2x6 diagonal cross braces and secure them with
1/2"x4-1/2" lag screws.Joists–Mark
the joist locations on both the beams and ledger, either 16" or 24"
o.c., as per your design. Set the joists in place with the crowns up. If
the deck is wide enough that you need two sets of joists (and if you
set the joists over the beams rather than hanging them from joist
hangers), splice the connections by overlapping each pair of joists at
least 1' and nailing them together with 8d galvanized nails. Install
blocking between the joists wherever required. Blocking requirements
are determined by your local building codes. Finally, nail the rim joist
across the ends of the joists.Stairs–Build any stairs you will need. Instructions for building outdoor stairs are covered in an accompanying brochure.
DECKING AND RAILINGS
Decking–Deck boards should be laid with the bark side up, and with both ends centered over a joist. Stagger the joints of side-by-side deck boards so they don't line up. Notch the boards around posts or other obstructions, leaving 1/8" space for drainage.
2"-thick deck boards should be spaced approximately 1/8"; most builders set a 16d nail between the boards as they fasten them. 5/4"'x6" pressure-treated decking may be placed with each board flush against the next; natural shrinkage will provide the proper spacing.
Fasten
the deck boards at each joist. Use two fasteners per support point for
decking up to 6" wide, or three fasteners for wider boards. Deck
screws or clips are generally better than nails, but all fasteners must
be hot-dipped galvanized, aluminum, or stainless steel. If you use
nails, blunt the points by tapping them with your hammer, to avoid
splitting the decking. Let the decking run over the edge of the structure, then saw the ends off after all boards are laid.
Railings–Secure the railing posts at each corner of the deck, and on each side of the stairs. Then secure the field posts, spaced equally between the corners but no farther apart than allowed by local building codes (typically 6'). Nail the sub-railings and cap rail in place, then add the balusters.
TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST
- Level and Line Level
- Mason's Line
- Ready-mixed Concrete, Gravel
- Shovel
- Structural Connectors
- Adjustable Wrench
- Chalk Line
- 8d and 16d Galvanized Common/Box Nails
- Lumber for Posts, Ledger, Beams and Joists
- Railing Material
- Stain
- 6 mil. Black Polyethylene
- Plumb Bob
- 2x2s and 1x4s for Batter Boards
- Wheelbarrow
- Concrete Piers
- Lag Screws, Hex Bolts w/ Nuts and Washers
- Hammer
- Measuring Tape
- Screws
- Deck Boards
- Framing Square
- Brushes and Thinner
For more information regarding buying or selling a home go to: http://www.mnrealty.info/
Monday, May 6, 2013
Does a newly sealed driveway help sell your house?
Short answer: Yes
A driveway that is newly sealed and without large holes and cracks is the first thing a homeowner sees when they drive into your home. There have been numerous studies done but most indicate that a large majority of people decide on a home in the first 10 seconds. In 10 seconds they haven't seen much more than your driveway and maybe your front door so those are very important aspects of selling your home.
For more tips on selling your home visit my website and ask for a free brochure at bstrom.counselorrealty.com
Saturday, May 4, 2013
Spring Housing Maintenance
Winters are hard on houses, especially when they last as long as ours did. Every house needs certain maintenance including:
Gutters
Debris-choked
gutters are a leading cause of water damage. Even a single clog of
leaves can redirect water out of gutters and into your home’s walls. Be
sure to follow proper safety precautions when inspecting your gutters,
and when you’re in doubt, hire a professional.
Plumbing
Plumbing
Cold
winters can be brutal on pipes. Get into the basement and check your
plumbing hill washing the dishes, watering the lawn, or taking a
shower–any time you’re pushing a large amount of water for an extended
time. Look for leaks, drips, or even surface moisture. A small leak is
an easy fix that will save on your water bill, but if a leak grows and
floods, pipe repair will be the least of your problems. Recheck the
pipes an hour later for signs of dampness and slow leaks.
Foundation
Runoff
and freezing temperatures can cause cracks in your foundation. Be sure
to seal these cracks as you find them, and consult a pro if you have any
questions about hidden damage or any impact on your home’s structural
integrity. Pay special attention to any areas where water might pool
against the foundation, often caused by lost soil.
Air Conditioning / Ventilation
Your
AC unit will get a workout over the summer, so be sure your vents are
free of debris and your filters are new. If you use window-mounted
units, ensure that window seals are tight and wall-mounted supports are
securely fastened.
Seals
Heat
and cold are both hard on rubber seals and caulking. Replacing seals
around your doors and windows can pay for itself in just a month and
requires very little effort, so there’s no reason to avoid it.
For more information that will help you sell your home go to www.counselorrealty.com/bstrom
Wednesday, May 1, 2013
How to sell your own home
Selling a home in any market can be cumbersome but today's market presents new challenges
There are three factors that will determine whether your home will sell
1. Location
2. Price
3. Condition
Sometimes there isn't a lot you can do about the first two unless your you have a favorable loan to value which isn't all that common these days; and moving your house isn't very practical. Condition is the one thing that most people can affect.
First thing to do that won't cost any money is to give the appearance of better condition and how you do that is to clean up. It has been estimated that homeowners could loose as much as 7.5% off the sale of their home just from not cleaning and decluttering - on a $200,000 house that is $15,000!
Second thing to look at doing is sprucing up some appearances - sometimes when we see a problem day after day we forget it is there have a friend or a professional Realtor look for small things like missing molding, unfinished projects, water stains, etc. It is not always easy to critique someone else's home so make sure you find someone that will tell you the truth.
Third is to do a little remodeling new floors give a wow factor that won't destroy your budget, new appliances will always pay for themselves, but the most important part of your home in the entrance. A recent study indicated that 95% of home buyers make their decision on whether to buy a home in the first 10 seconds. You should buy a new front door, make sure the front is clean (no spider webs, dirt, dying plants, etc.), and don't store anything in the front of the house. You can do many things to make your home look nice but if they see dying plants or spider webs by the front door the rest won't impress them anymore since they have already made up their mind.
For more helpful hints and professional advice go to Ben Strom's website - there is so much to do in order to get a house sold and simply listing it with any old Realtor won't get it done. Contact me for a free consultation and more information by email
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